An Irish pilgrimage itinerary in New Orleans

Perhaps more than any other American city, New Orleans is a unique gumbo of multiple cultures: French, Spanish, Creole, Caribbean, African, Italian, German, and—perhaps least known and most unexpected—Irish.

The Irish emigrated to New Orleans in large numbers during the 19th century, particularly during the Great Famine. They often took on hard labor jobs; they also took on the discrimination and disdain that came with those positions. In backbreaking and often deadly work, the Irish served a vital role in building the city, digging major canals that opened entire neighborhoods to growth and progress. They also built their own neighborhood, now one of the most charming in New Orleans, known as the Irish Channel.

Yet there was something sacred the Irish shared with all the other cultures in New Orleans: one, universal Catholic faith. As it passes through the prism of human culture, that shared universal faith has always been expressed in a kaleidoscope of ways. New Orleans offers a rare expression of that universality. Each group built their own parishes with pastors who spoke their own languages and art and music that reflected their own homelands. Sometimes these parishes were across the street from each other. Many of them remain active. 

For St Patrick’s feast, this itinerary offers a day of pilgrimage in Irish footsteps through New Orleans. You will see museums and memorials honoring the Irish legacy in New Orleans, visit a saint’s shrine, and tour the colorful, eclectic Irish Channel neighborhood.  We've included Mass at one of New Orleans' most beautiful churches, built for the Irish community, and delicious Irish-inspired meals and drinks.

Begin with coffee at St Pat’s Irish Coffeehouse.

Wake up with a coffee at St Pat’s Irish Coffeehouse (they are also a full-service Irish pub serving whiskey and beer).  If you want something to sink your teeth into, grab beignets at nearby Cafe Beignet, our favorite beignet spot.

Tour the Irish Cultural Museum of New Orleans.

Connected to St Pat’s, this French Quarter museum shares the history of the city’s Irish population through heart-stirring exhibits and storytelling.

Go to confession and Mass at St Patrick’s Catholic Church.

Established in 1833 for Irish Catholics who couldn’t understand the French spoken at St Louis Cathedral and many other parishes, St Patrick’s was the first in New Orleans to offer Mass in English. You will see the white marble high altar, imported from Italy and considered one of the most beautiful in the country. St Patrick’s also features striking Gothic Revival architecture: a towering spire, pointed arches, and intricate stained glass windows. Buried here is the parish’s first pastor, Fr James Mullon, who was a cousin of the Irish martyr St Oliver Plunkett. Confession begins at 11 a.m., followed by Mass at 11:30 a.m.

Have lunch at Parasol’s.

Parasol’s defines the neighborhood corner bar and happens to serve excellent roast beef poboys, a bucket-list New Orleans menu item. At this Irish Channel standby, you can also enjoy superb fried seafood platters and other New Orleans classics. 

Walk the Irish Channel neighborhood.

Stroll through this neighborhood to see dozens of colorful shotgun houses typical of New Orleans architecture. These iconic cottages were built primarily by Irish laborers. My favorite street to wander is Constance Street, but don’t be afraid to meander to other side streets. You’ll see colorful, curlicue architecture packed with historic charm. If you’re in the mood to shop, nearby Magazine Street offers miles of shops, vintage boutiques, art dealers, and antique galleries.

Visit a saint's shrine at St Alphonsus-St Mary’s Assumption parish. 

On this corner of the Irish Channel, three distinct parishes once operated: one for the French, one for the Germans, and one for the Irish. St Alphonsus, the Irish parish, is now closed, although you can see its stunning stained glass windows and frescoes when it opens for the annual Good Friday Nine Church Walk. St Mary’s Assumption, the German parish, remains active and showcases ornate German Baroque Revival architecture, a rarity in New Orleans. It also hosts the National Shrine of Blessed Francis Xavier Seelos, the Redemptorist priest who ministered to Irish immigrants during yellow fever epidemics. He is buried here with a museum of artifacts from his life. The shrine includes a massive and diverse collection of relics from dozens and dozens of saints and sacred objects. 

Have an Irish-inspired dinner with a New Orleans twist.

You can remain in the Irish Channel for dinner and drinks at Tracey’s, a casual Magazine Street outpost that serves burgers, wings, and fried seafood. Or enjoy a short walk up to St Charles Avenue for fish and chips at The Avenue Pub or steaks and seafood at the upscale Mr John’s Steakhouse. Don't forget to spike everything with Tabasco.

A few bonus sites 

• New Basin Canal Memorial: With a 10-minute drive from the primary trajectory of this itinerary, you can visit this memorial in the Lakeview neighborhood. Standing on the site of the now-filled New Basin Canal, it honors thousands of Irish workers who perished while digging the canal in the 1830s and 1840s due to disease and brutal working conditions. 

• Finn McCool’s Irish Pub (Mid-City): a great place for a pint, sports, and live music

• Erin Rose (French Quarter): an otherwise unremarkable bar that serves great frozen Irish coffee

Image sources: St Patrick's exterior, St Pat's Coffeehouse, Irish Cultural Museum, St Patrick's interior, Parasol's, The Avenue Pub

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